This week I was asked by a friend to help describe the Robe a l’anglaise for a novel she is writing. Well, it sent me off on a spin, as I love this era.
Here comes the history lesson 😜
I could type for hours about this dress - was such a statement piece, and a bit of a snub to English fashion by the French who were leading in female fashion at the time. Just to give you some historical context this dress was basically formed around the time of the French Revolution (1780-1795) as a 'simpler' country style English version of the Robe à l'française (very ornate, over the top style of dress with hair to match). The Robe à l'anglaise was popularise by Marie Antoinette in her 'dressing up' as a country woman in her purpose-built farm called Hameau de la Reine - the style was copied worldwide through portraiture. Although it was supposed to give the impression of simple, these dresses were still not simple and still used fine fabrics such as silk and satin. Linen was also used for the first time in fashion, but it wasn't a cheap fabric in the late 18th century. To wear this gown anywhere in the world you would still have to had money.
The style is an open robe, which means that the bodice and the over-skirt are one piece, designed to showcase a simpler petticoat often of plain white silk or linen, no decoration. The bodice/skirt would have been made from hand painted silk. This style of silhouette did not have the panniers (side underskirt structure) of the early 18th century, and was designed to be as deliberately 'unstructured' as possible. (Robe à l'française uses a lot of structure to create an artificial shape).
The bodice would have been boned at the back. The dress would be fastened at the front over a compéres or stomacher (often made by bone or even very fine wood). This boning and structure of the bodice would have replaced the corseting which was found in the earlier 18th century and the Robe à l'française.
The sleeves would have been fitted (no pleats at the shoulder) often with shaping sewn in at the elbow (mini darts sewn in to give a 'natural' L shape). The end of the sleeves would have been finished with lace or linen.